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Ryan Jeffries sent me this trip report from last week's dive. He told me I could share it with you...
Waukegan
Adventure
After several weeks of planning and waiting, three divers met early last Saturday morning with a plan. A short drive later Jim, Greg and I were in Waukegan, IL unloading gear on the dock. We were heading out on the afternoon charter on the Enterprise. Captain Kurt met us and we made small talk while anxiously waiting for Captain Dale to ease into the harbor from the morning charter. The day was sun drenched and warm.
With gear bags and tanks stowed the captains cast off and we made way to the Wisconsin. The Wisconsin is 6.5 miles ESE of Kenosha, WI in a depth of 130’. The ship sank as the result of a northeasterly gale on October 29, 1929. A side note: Anyone know another reason that date is famous? The ship is sitting squarely on her keel in a near upright position. The steel superstructure of the wreck is nearly swept away, exposing the supporting I-beams. In her cargo hull, three vintage automobiles remain - a Hudson, an Essex and a Chevrolet touring car. The mid-ship cargo hold with the cars would the target for Greg and I this weekend. We had a limited look at the wreck last summer and were back for more.
The call went out from Capt. Kurt, “Twenty minutes, divers!” But alas we would not be the first to splash. Another diver, Mike, was already dressed and ready to gear up. The three of us splashed last and enjoyed the calm 64F water as we worked toward the bow and down the mooring line. Visibility was poor until we descended past the second thermocline around 70’. You knew two things at this point- One, there’s the wreck I’ve been waiting to see; Two, it got cold- ice cream headache cold. The bottom temp was 41F. We had tied in the mid-ship mooring which is right above the cargo hold with the cars. However, the dive plan was for an easy swim around the rail to get a look at the entire wreck. Any gas left would be spent taking a closer look at the cargo hold to plan tomorrow’s penetration. Across the bow, down the starboard side, around the stern, and back to the mid-ship. The bow deck is mostly collapsed exposing several rooms below, while the stern decking is in place revealing little about the secrets inside. Roughly twenty-five minutes and we were heading up the mooring line.
After some water and watermelon (the perfect surface break food) we were gearing up again. Down the line we spent this dive looking inside the portholes around the bow. Jim made out a couple of wheels. Those cars have been waiting almost 80 years; they can wait one more day. But can I? Around the front of the bow and we were caught in awe at the size of the storm bow. The bow point is around 95’, the deck is 110’, and the lake bed is 128’. You do the math. Hovering in front of this ship makes you feel small. I noticed the port anchor chain wrapped around the bow and heading forward. Maybe next time we’ll follow it and see where it leads. Further around the bow on the starboard side we see the salvage hole. Apparently they used explosives to open the lower decks for salvage operations. Yes we need to explore that when deco time is less of a concern. Because unfortunately, with gas remaining my computer is about to tell me that our no-deco time is up. We crossed the deck and began our ascent.
The next morning came very early. A 6:30 dock time had us leaving the hotel before breakfast was served so we stopped at Dunkin Doughnuts for coffee and sweets. We arrived at the harbor right behind Capt. Dale and hauled our full tanks out to the boat. It was a bit windier than the day before and the air temps were already in the mid-70s. It was still a great day to be heading out on the lake. A few minutes later Jim’s instructor and fellow student arrived. Jim was finishing his class today and that left Greg and I diving as a buddy team. This was good and bad. Unlike the previous day when we charted the boat, Jim’s instructor had the boat today. He planned to do a penetration at guess where – yes, the mid-ship cargo hold. His charter, his choice. Not to worry, Greg and I had plan B. Down the bow mooring line, pausing around 70’ again as I acclimated to my headache, we dropped over the side to the salvage hole. Planning to work our way in Greg pulled his reel, tied off, and got us under way. A few feet into the first room we decided it may not be worth running a reel around the scattered random debris as we could see a large opening in the deck above. That and we didn’t want to leave a reel tied in at this part of the wreck. We planned to visit the cars next dive. After looking around a bit we headed up over the side and dropped down through the debris of the forward decking. I could make out a cart, some plumbing, and a round hatch that went further into the wreck. Not sure I’m going in there! Just as well, it’s time to head back up.
On the stern of the Enterprise we enjoyed lunch and of course, more watermelon. Soon divers started gearing up and splashing. Greg and I took our turn and headed straight for the cars. According to the history of the ship there were three new (1929) automobiles in the mid-ship cargo hold. Two have deteriorated and leave only a spindly skeleton of remains. This coupled with complete coverage by zebra mussels makes it difficult to picture the cars loaded on the ship for the journey north so long ago. The last car still retains its complete shape and is still resting on wheels. The steering wheel is gone except for the center spindle. While viewing the rest of the interior I noted the usual layer of mussels except for one small area in the center of the dash. It had to be the instrument cluster. I tried to reach in and brush away the silt. Despite my long arms, I could not perform this simple task. Next time I think I would like to identify each car. Those who may know don’t spoil it for me. This will be my little mystery to solve. I plan to start with a little research on each car. Well as this thought ran through my mind my computer countdown reached zero. Time to end this dive, and this trip.
As we started breaking down gear on deck one of the other divers announced that it was a great dive and once again we cheated death. I replied yes it was a great dive; however I never like to think of my diving as cheating death. On the long drive home I thought about our weekend and then the events that unfolded early in the morning almost 78 years ago. The desperation of a captain and crew waiting for help. The relentless beating of a late season storm and the cold grip of the lake that put this piece of history here for me to see today. Although the sinking would not prove to be the biggest news of the day. By the end of the day the stock market would drop 12% and mark the beginning of the stock market crash and the great depression. That day was a black Tuesday indeed. A fateful day that now motivates many divers to visit for a peek into the rich maritime history of the Great Lakes. It allows me to grab life and shake it for all its worth. To live with some adventure. I can’t wait for my next trip.
Dive safe,
Captain Dale Bennett
Charter Captain & Instructor Trainer
Open Water through Advanced Trimix
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